Italian Cooking & Language Blog

Fare La Scarpetta means to wipe your plate clean with a piece of bread.

What else could you ask for?

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Reader Comments on Zingerman's (Part 2 of 2)

We’ll be returning to Zingerman’s for a Special Dinner Do-Over on April 13th. Will they be able to meet expectations? I asked readers to share their thoughts on Zingerman’s. Based on their experiences, it looks like it could go either way.

You can read Part 1 of the reader comments here.

If you would like to submit your thoughts on Zingerman’s, please use the Comments section below or email me (Chloemiller(at)gmail(dot)com.)





Going to Zingerman's is like going inside someone's crazy. But there is good food to be had until you can escape!

          - KC Trommer


I have tried to be excited about Zingermans, really I have.

Met for coffee and pastry a few times with friends when we first moved here from NYC -pretty good. Had a pastrami sandwich about a year ago - on stale dried out bread. No thank you!


I do like their sesame semolina very much, though, and will pay the price for it on special occasions. Had one near Roadhouse experience – walked in. It was very loud and very crowded, smelled like the boardwalk so we didn’t put our names on the 2 hour waitlist.


          - Laurie


Liz {my wife} is a Zingeraddict. I've also grown to love some of the more unique dishes, like "twigs and berries" and the trout salad.

          -Fabio Rojas



I agree about ZIngerman's being too pricey except as a treat. But I would like to add that it is a local treasure in terms of its support for wholesome, local food. I know that the folks of Locavorious use a Zingerman's kitchen facility. Instead of being cutthroat, Zingerman's appears quite supportive of other local food innovators.


          -Bonnie Bucqueroux


When I worked in Ann Arbor at the medical center I went there for lunch or after work for a sandwich MAYBE two times in 5 years. Much like Whole Foods being "Whole Paycheck", I referred to Zingerman's Deli as the "best $13 sandwich" in town. It is an iconic place though and I just took a visiting friend there (to deli and roadhouse) when we were in town for the Folk Festival. As MK said, I wouldn't head there for a sandwich typically, given the other great places around. I used to stop there occasionally (in the nine years since I worked in AA) when we were in town to pick up a specific thing like bacon, loaf of bread, cheese. In the last five years, the availability of Zingerman's products in Lansing has expanded greatly. There is daily fresh delivery of bread to the East Lansing Food Co-op and I can get quite a few of the Creamery Cheeses locally at ELFCO and the City Market. Nueske's bacon was another draw to Zingerman's, but I can even find that locally now. The one item I would head to the deli for that I can't get here anymore is the gelato. If you haven't tried the Burned Sugar Gelato, it is incredible. The E.L. Food Co-op carried it for awhile and I think Blaine and I were the only ones to buy it. By the pint it is pretty pricey and unless you had tried it before, you wouldn't know what to expect and want to make the investment in it.

When I was in town for the Folk Festival last month, I finally ate at the Roadhouse. We had to make early reservations because of the FFest crowds and ended up with the lunch menu. The prices were much less than I had anticipated on the dinner menu, which was a bonus. We had a great meal and excellent service and I thought I blogged on it, but I guess it is still "in the hopper" right now. I need to get to that. The brisket was great, grits incredible and pimento mac and cheese pretty tasty too.

I would return to the Roadhouse again, but honestly there are so many places I miss down there and so many new ones to try, I won't race back. I am going to be in AA for a week at the end of the school year for a mentorship/internship experience at the U. I will likely check Zingerman's schedule for classes or tastings, but won't fight my way through the crowd or make the financial commitment of a sandwich there.

          -Amy


I ate at Zingerman's Roadhouse this summer. I had the pork sandwich with South Carolina mustard BBQ sauce. The sauce was unique and made the meal.


          -Gregory Koger


We've been to all of the Zingerman's stores at one time or another. You have to understand that we live 3.5 hours away from Ann Arbor, and besides The Ark, Zingerman's is usually our destination. (We may throw in some gambling or spiritually-related event, but Zingerman's is our main destination.) We usually bring a cooler with us for the special cheeses, potato salad, and meats in the cases at the Deli and have at least one meal at the Roadhouse and usually split a sandwich at the Deli.
We visited all of the stores the last time we were there in April of '08 and received a Zingerman's road trip t-shirt at the end as a parting gift.

The service is outstanding. We chatted with one of our servers once about the steps they have to take to become a server. It's quite impressive to hear what they have to do. If there is any complaint, it's that they tend to hover, which I suspect they're trained to do. We're used to and enjoy the European way of table service: don't interrupt and don't hover, but DO pay attention to the customer to see when/if they need something.

The food has always been outstanding. At our ripe old age (mid-50s and early 60s) we've encountered several best-evers at the Roadhouse: meat loaf, mac 'n' cheese, ribs, for starters.

We met one of the owners at the Roadhouse when he came to our table delivering a lagniappe (Ari) and he was soon showing Bob around to look at his salt and pepper shaker collection after he found out that Bob was a collector. Nice guy and definitely involved in his day-to-day operations.

We had the Creamery to ourselves on that roadtrip t-shirt day & the person helping us out took his time with us. We ended up sampling just about every cheese in the entire store and of course brought a lot home, which is their goal. We just used some guanciale last night in a beef roast from that trip & it held up!

They're not cheap! The catalog is even more expensive... but we've sent gifts across the US from Z's and never had a problem. Apples to CA, olive oils to Oregon, gift baskets to VA and NJ.

My mouth is watering..... gotta get back soon!

          -Jan Patetta

Monday, March 8, 2010

Reader Comments on Zingerman’s (Part 1 of 2)

We’ll be returning to Zingerman’s for a Special Dinner Do-Over on April 13th. Will they be able to meet expectations? I asked readers to share their thoughts on Zingerman’s. Based on their experiences, it looks like it could go either way.

If you would like to submit your thoughts on Zingerman’s, please use the Comments section below or email me (Chloemiller(at)gmail(dot)com.)

PS: There were so many responses that I’ll be posting a handful everyday for the next few days.




The Roadhouse or the "deli?" Either way, I'd say underwhelmed, overcharged, and often patronized by staff who feel the need to share too much about the origins of the food or their recs on the food when I never asked!
          - Leslie Hinkson


I have only been once and that was the deli several years ago and the service was ok but they did not have the first 3 things we ordered for the kids (ordered off their menu) so we left, never to return.

          - Shayne Jovicevic


I love Zingerman’s. Don’t eat there often, but think the quality is impeccable.


Deli—best corned beef around (and don’t get the lean, if you need lean you shouldn’t be eating corned beef)
Deli—take friends from out of town and family a few times a year, but can’t afford to frequent too often


Bread—YUM….love it, trying to learn to make my own


Cheese—love the cheese, and it’s not that expensive, I make my own mozzarella and for $7 raw milk plus my time I get 2 balls, vs $10 for two of theirs (and their fresh mozz is the best I can find in town other than homemade)


Roadhouse---you gotta know how to order….I always get the kid sized burger and fries and it is plenty and YUM


They will always give you a taste of the sides, so fill up that way if you need more


I add and delete ingredients to get the perfect salad—and it is always delish


I do think they are pricey for things like fried chicken when that is all you get with fries--for the prices they charge they should include a vegetable (but again, ask for a taste and you’re set)


It’s pretty cool when Ari pours your water and busses your table…with a smile and nice chatter with the kids


Ok, now I’m hungry again!


          - Marnie Reid


We'll go to Zingerman's for a special treat. I don't tend to eat out much these days, but if I do, I want the food and service to be high quality, and I find that at both the deli and the Roadhouse for the most part. Yes, there have been off days, but if we ask them to fix something they always will. I don't like their coffee, but that's just personal preference rather than my thinking it's "bad".

I love what Zingerman's does for the community and I like many of their business practices. I also love the variety of foods I can learn about there, even if I can't afford them. They're great for ideas.

My faves: the dark chocolate or John Do Ya? (Gianduia) gelato, Apricot/cream cheese strudel, Chocolate chess pie, gingerbread coffee cake, the new Peace sandwich, just about any chicken sandwiches, their old pickles, breakfast at the Roadhouse, especially the grits and bits waffles, Roadhouse Monday night burger/salad special, Roadhouse fish (as a VERY special treat), any Roadhouse cheese boards, the Louis salad at the Roadhouse, Roadhouse fried chicken.

I love Zingerman's breads, but I make most of my own bread.

I'm a fan of Zingerman's bagels.

We, too, had a not-fabulous experience at a "special" dinner, but it was the recent Italian one at the deli. There were things that were wonderful and other things that weren't. I know if we'd complained, again, they would have offered us something. In the big scheme of things, it wasn't that important, it was more a matter of taste issues, and again, the things that were fabulous (the antipasto plate, the pasta and the spinach salad) were truly fabulous.

          - Jennifer Haines


We often go to the Roadhouse as our restaurant of choice. It's one of the very few places that my son with food allergies can order off the menu. Chef Alex has always been willing to make anything Nicholas wants without soy or dairy. I've been pretty impressed. I also LOVE their greens, just can't do them like that at home! Can't say I've had a bad meal there. My husband was suspicious of a $10 burger, but once he got to the cheese menu he cooled off a bit. Now he has no problem paying the $10.
We exclusively eat Zingerman's bread at home. Yes, pricey, but just can't imagine every going back to grocery store bread. We often get a cake for special occasions - to die for, the icing tastes like actual food instead of whatever most birthday cake frosting is made out of.


The deli isn't near anything I do regularly. I'm a huge sandwich fan, but if I want a really good one I tend to go to Morgan and York which is more convenient for me.


The collection of companies has always been very generous donating food for non-profits and Chef Alex even volunteered as a guest chef for a fundraiser I organized - he only charged us for the food.


          -Victoria Bennett


Love:

Mozzarella

Bridgewater cheese

All the other cheeses (ha!)

Bread, esp. baguettes & the cranberry-pecan & bostoks

The coffee-place serves cubano which impressed my hubby

All the people who work there seem super nice and really engaged in life, which is awesome. This makes it really enjoyable for me to shop there. (Usu. the creamery/bakehouse/coffeeroasters, not the shop in Kerrytown. That one's too crowded most of the time for me to find enjoyable.)

The theme meals at the Roadhouse. We went to the Irish one. It was wonderful.

Giving back to the community.

Don't love:

I'm not a sandwich fan so I don't choose to go to the deli much

I'm not a fan of the types of soups they usually make; I wish they made other kinds because soup is one of my favorite things & they'd do a fantastic job!

I'm not a fan of the American food on the Roadhouse menu so I tend not to go there either, though the one time I did it was good if spendy. (The things on my "love" list may be spendy too, in others' view; I find them worth it to me.)

          - Suzie Heiney


I really like it. I don't go there often but I can't say I go anywhere very often. I like to take some tomatoes from the garden, a garlic clove and some basil and then get a little jambon serrano, a baguette and I ask them for a little olive oil. We also order a ball of fresh mozzarella and put it on the sandwich with the garlic, basil, jambon serrano, olive oil and tomato (preferably a romano). Then we can go and have a picnic somewhere. Peel the garlic, rub on the baguette, drizzle on the olive oil and add slices of jambon, tomato and basil.


Just like Spain!


They really give a lot back to the community. They buy from local farmers, when possible. They donate frequently to various groups, etc. etc. etc. I'll admit, when I started going there in '84 or '83? it wasn't as expensive but I still love it and have regular cravings for #13 - Sherman's Sure Choice.


          - Jennifer Kangas


We've eaten at Zingerman's Roadhouse several times and loved it! Everything we've eaten has been delicious; for carnivore and vegetarian, appetizer lover, beer taster, wine with everything person, and desert lover, it has something you will come back for as often as you can. But it is pricey, very pricey, for some things, even though it ends up being worth the cost.

          - Christine Lord

Friday, March 5, 2010

Chicago’s Paterno’s Pizza: Great Pizza, Pasta and an Incredible place to de-vegginize


Thank you to JoAnne Pavin for today’s post. She is a Chicago area holistic health practicioner, educator and writer. Her mission os to inform people that who we eat with and how we eat is just as important as what we eat. Check out her company Solutions to Health and her food blog A Table To Eat At.


***
After the last ten years of struggling with my vegetarian lifestyle, I found nothing more worthy of de-veggi-nizing myself than an Incredible Beef sandwich from Paterno’s Pizza in Chicago! Now, let me set the record straight, I am a true herbivore; but it was love at first bite when I sunk into this juicy meat delight. I stopped eating red meat over 20 years ago, but the Incredible Beef is a reason to start again.

You might think, what’s the big deal about beef and bread? It starts with the choice of ingredients and the people behind the recipe. John Paterno, a long time family friend and owner, says it comes from knowing how to choose quality beef, and what cuts are tender and tastiest. He explains “it starts with the shoulder or chuck and moves into the rib... you want the part (of the cattle) that provides the most flavor.” I don’t know if it is the flavor of the beef, the juice, or the soft buttery garlic bread it comes on that I love the most, or the fine melted mozzarella cheese, sweet roasted green peppers, and Giardiniera that grace the top! All the fine ingredients in the world can make a sandwich, but I personally believe it is the energy of the people behind it that make it so good.

Paterno’s is a family owned business since 1954. Josephine and Santo Paterno came to the United States from Sicily in 1938 with their two sons, John and Paul. They originally opened a liquor store, one of the largest in Chicago, but food was in their Italian roots and so the evolution began. They made a small carry out area in their store for pizza and sandwiches which eventually grew into a full size kitchen and restaurant. Today a full menu includes Santo and Josephine’s homemade recipes consisting of pizza, pasta, beef, sausage, meatballs, soups and much more. Since Santo’s passing in 2000, John and Paul and their daughters run the business, with Josephine, in her 90’s, still there every day making the soups and sauces.

My dad and John are grade school classmates, and long time friends. Dad and I recently went to pay John a visit and of course to eat some great food. It may be the retro 60’s P A T E R N O sign or the 70’s style bar that makes you feel like you’re in a time warp, but when food speaks for itself, who needs fancy ambience?! It certainly is a place where they’re not judging you on looks and you better not be judging them. After all it’s good food and good prices that keep you in business for over 50 years!

I am there for the Incredible Beef again, but decide I can’t pass up the pizza. With homemade dough and sauces, you are certain to welcome something new to your taste buds. In other words, it’s not just your run of the mill pizza. The thin crust is flavorful, with added crisps that make an extra crunch. The oregano, basil and a hint of garlic are apparent in the sauce, which is neither too salty, nor too tangy, and used in ample amounts, there is nothing worse than a pizza without enough sauce! The topping ingredients are fresh, not canned, or overcooked. If you are a meat lover, they have homemade meat balls, fresh sausage and pepperoni. Finally, real grated Parmigiano Reggiano and fresh red peppers make the cake! Or in this case, the pizza pie.

And to make the best of this feasting visit, I decide to stuff in a little linguini and clams with red sauce, which my Dad was having. It certainly is “all in the sauce”. A perfect consistency, neither too thick nor too watery, the marinara sauce is mixed with a perfect balance of clams which were obviously sautéed in butter and garlic before being tossed on top of perfectly cooked linguini. To accompany your meal, they offer many Italian wines, bottled and draft beers, or full liquor bar. The Sam Adams I had partnered well with the pizza.

Paterno’s Pizza, a place rich in history and in flavor, you’ll find a warm atmosphere, good people and great food. Leave your fancy attire at home. You’ll be more comfortable, especially after you stuff yourself with pizza, pasta and of course the Incredible Beef ! (sorry there is no picture of the beef I ate it too fast!)

Visit Paterno's Pizza, 5303 N. Milwaukee, Chicago, Illinois.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Reprint: Zingerman’s Bacon Brunch

In the spirit of sharing Zingerman’s experiences, I’m reprinting this blog post from March 28, 2009. (Isn’t it sweet? It was so long ago that my husband was only my fiancé.)

That was one amazing bacon brunch.

The Buttermilk Biscuits with Chocolate-Bacon Gravy remains on the brunch menu, so you can try it for yourself. We’ve had it a few times and it is always stellar. With the recent publication of Zingerman’s Guide to Better Bacon, you can be assured that there will future bacon-related events.

***

I am now a Zingerman’s convert. I resisted for a while (if you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you know I generally avoid agreeing with crowds), but after eating bacon-enhanced food for two hours at today’s Bacon & Brunch with Ari Weinzweig, I’m in with Zingerman’s.

The brunch and Ari’s talk on bacon, was co-sponsored by the Ann Arbor Book Festival. In May, Ari will be on a panel with other foodie authors discussing his book, Guide to Better Bacon: Stories of pork bellies, hush puppies, rock’n’roll music and bacon fat mayonnaise.

The meal started out with Zingerman’s Bakehouse Bacon-Cheddar Scones and American Fried Bread. The bread was fried in, you guessed it, bacon fat. I have never eaten a more luscious piece of fried bread in my life. (My fiancé noticed a few people at the end looking in the baskets for more bread and snatching an extra piece or two.)

We were then treated to South Carlolina Gold Rice Grits and Bits Waffle and Hangtown Fry (eggs with bacon and oysters mixed in) with Bacon Hash. The hash was particularly smooth and bursting with flavor. The waffles had crispy bacon bits on top. The bacon fat, which was the base for most of what we ate this morning, absorbs the flavors of the other ingredients and allows them to blossom.

Don’t fret, vegetarians. There was a tofu bacon option for you.

Then we had a bacon tasting. Now, I might not have found a physician in Ann Arbor yet, but I’m sure she wouldn’t have approved of a plate of bacon. Still, this morning was like a bacon holiday, so who was I to resist?

I had no idea that there were so many different kinds of bacon. I know that my father likes thicker slices of bacon and I tend to buy the less smoky organic bacon at Trader Joe’s. Ari talked about customers who know about different kinds of cheeses and wines, but have a hard time describing their favorite bacon. He suggested buying a variety of types of bacon and serving them at home to guests. (Is it too late to change our wedding menu to include more bacon?)

My favorite was Benton’s. It is the second to the last one on the plate. It originates in eastern Tennessee and is dry cured and smoked over hickory.

We ended with Buttermilk Biscuits with Chocolate-Bacon Gravy. My goodness, these were delicious. While I tried to hold back and not finish each plate offered, I wanted to lick this plate clean. The sweet-savory flavors shut off all my other senses so I could focus on the striking taste. It reminded me of the sweet-sour combination of a sea salt caramel, only chocolate was involved.

Throughout the meal, Ari shared his expertise with bacon. He shared some personal stories along the way. Ari grew up in a Kosher household and remembers eating fairly unremarkable beef bacon as a child. Most of the food that he sells at Zingerman’s is something he discovered, rather than something he grew up with.

About bacon’s importance, Ari stressed, “bacon is to North American cooking what olive oil is to Mediterranean food.” According to his research, bacon has been big since the beginning in America. It crosses almost all ethnic and cultural (although not religious) lines. The Europeans brought bacon with them and even influenced the Native American cooking. In the South, he said, you will almost always find a jar of bacon fat by the stove (not refrigerated) and it would be eaten in all seasons.

Zingerman’s kindly shared recipes from the upcoming book. I know I can’t wait until the book comes out to read more.

***
Have you eaten at Zingerman’s? I’d love your thoughts on your experience.

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Crispy Waffles with Salted Caramel Coulis

Homemade caramel has always evaded me (think hardened sugar on the bottom of what was once a perfectly fine pot.) This recipe for a salted caramel coulis from Bon Appétit was surprisingly easy. With the addition of heavy whipping cream and butter, the caramel didn’t harden the way other recipes have.

The salt taste wasn’t very prominent. I might add more the next time to help add to the contrasting flavors.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Spaghetti with a Cali Twist: Gluten-Free, Vegan by Guest Blogger Chloe Lauer


Thanks to Chloe Lauer for today’s gluten-free, vegan twist on a classic Italian dish. She is a health coach, urban planner, and yogi in San Francisco, CA. Chloe gathers cooking inspiration from what is beautiful and fresh at the weekly farmer’s market, and from memories of favorite childhood meals. For more recipes, check out her blog, Zest For Life Today.
***

Spaghetti is a classic Italian dish. For many, it evokes feelings of comfort -- memories of family meals shared around a table, or, perhaps, reminiscences of a cherished time abroad, savoring the flavors and scents of authentic Italy. Either way, thoughts of spaghetti bring smiles to our faces.

What happens when one discovers an allergy to wheat or chooses to eat a diet free from animal products, for whatever reason? Are we to forsake the very foods that bring us joy?

Do not fret, my friends. There is magic in the air – it’s called….(drum roll)…the spaghetti squash! When cooked, what looks like your average squash transforms into long, thin strands that quite resemble noodles! While they have a crunchier texture than wheat pasta, the experience of eating this squash can satisfy even the most entrenched comfort-food cravings.

Are you ready to give it a go?

Ingredients (local and organic preferred; all measurements approximate):

1 spaghetti squash

¼ cup olive oil

½ cup chopped white onion

½ cup grated carrots

1.5 cups sliced brown button mushrooms

2 cups sliced tomatoes

1 cup organic marinara sauce (optional – feel free to use more tomatoes instead)

¼ cup red wine

1.5 cups shredded kale

2 tablespoons dried oregano (or finely chopped fresh)

2 tablespoons dried basil (or finely chopped fresh)

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Preparing the squash:

Heat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Cut the squash in half and remove the stingy middle portion containing the seeds (you can save the seeds to roast – makes a good snack). Place each half face down in an inch of water in your baking dish. (You may need to use two dishes, as I did, if yours are on the smaller side.) Bake for about 45 minutes, or until you can easily push a fork through the outer skin. Drain the water out of the dish. With a fork, pull the flesh of the squash out – it will turn into spaghetti-like strands. Set aside.

Preparing the sauce:

Chop the onion, shred the carrots and kale, and slice the mushrooms and tomatoes. Get out the olive oil, marina, and herbs. Heat a frying pan to medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, onions, and carrots. Sauté until the onions are transparent. Add the mushrooms and cover for a minute or two. Then add the tomatoes, marina sauce, red wine and herbs. Cover again and simmer until the tomatoes are soft and the liquid of the wine is cooked down. Finally, add the kale and simmer just until the kale is a vibrant green. Don’t overcook the greens.

Putting it all together:

Dish up the spaghetti squash into bowls. Top with a generous portion of sauce. Finish with sea salt and pepper to taste. If you’re not vegan, feel free to add Parmesan cheese!

Enjoying!

Take a deep breath. Observe the beauty of what you have prepared. Feel the steam on your face. Smell the fresh scents of delicious, healthy nourishment…slowly, take your first bite. Chew thoughtfully. What do you think? Does this gluten-free, vegan twist satisfy your need for Italian comfort food? Or does it belong in another category entirely? Please share your experiences!

Monday, March 1, 2010

Zingerman’s Roadhouse Weekly Staff Tasting



A Special Dinner do-over invitation *and* an invitation to a staff tasting of the weekly specials? I couldn’t resist.

Every week, the Zingerman’s Roadhouse chefs share their carefully crafted, themed weekly specials with the staff. They describe the ingredients and sometimes the origins of the ingredients. After tasting a bite of each dish, the staff can better describe them to customers.

This week’s specials revolved around fish: everything from fried smelt to oatmeal crusted skate wing. With the skate, the chef displayed how the customers will be able to very easily debone the fish with one motion.

Drinks weren’t forgotten. The coffee flavor of the week and a new wine offering were also available for tasting. Monthly wine tastings are available for the staff to learn more about the menu.

Always Italian-leaning, my favorite was the Grilled Fennel-Spiced Amberjack that was served with a risotto-crab cake. I’m not one for fennel, but the taste wasn’t overwhelming and the risotto was deliciously smooth and flavorful.

When you return to the Roadhouse, you can be assured that the staff is familiar with the offerings. Thanks to the ever-gracious Events Manager Joanie Mallory for the invitation!